Although there are many differing schools of thought on how to shape fruit trees, most growers now prefer to create a tree with a dominant central trunk and lateral branches spaced evenly in different directions. Such a tree, called a spindle tree, has a conical form reminiscent of a Christmas tree. One of the main purposes in shaping your tree is allow light to enter the tree from all directions. Your branches should eventually be spaced approximately one foot (30 cm) apart and be placed so that they radiate in every direction, filling the entire theoretical cone shape. When you receive your tree, leave only those branches you want to keep and prune off the others. Try to alow keeping branches that form narrow crotches with the trunk. These are often structurally weak and may tear off under a load of fruit or snow. Remember to always leave the main trunk alone. Your cuts should be close enough to the trunk to avoid leaving a stub, but always keep the raised collar where the trunk meets the branch as this collar contains many of the tissues necessary for speedy healing. Do not use sealers sold for covering pruning cuts. Research has proven these are unnecessary and often detrimental.

In summer, as the tree gets older, pruning can be used to restrain vegetative growth. Unlike spring pruning, which stimulates vigorous growth near the pruning cuts, summer pruning inhibits vegetative growth and usually induces the tree to produce fruiting buds near the cut. Summer pruning is a useful tool to keep the size of your tree down and to increase its productivity. If summer pruning is done too late (after early July) the buds will have already begun forming for the next year and the pruning will not be as effective.

Always use well-made pruning shears or saws and keep them sharp. Sterilize your tools by wiping them frequently with rubbing alcohol. This will help prevent spreading any diseases from infected trees to healthy trees.